Sake, the traditional Japanese rice wine, owes much of its unique character to two fundamental ingredients: water and rice. Sake rice used for brewing sake is specifically cultivated for sake brewing and the preferred choice due to its unique properties. In this article, we delve into the different types of rice used in sake production and explore what makes them special.
What Rice is Used for Sake?
Japanese sake is mainly made of water and rice. The rice plant is a type of grass that is planted from seedlings each spring and harvested in autumn. Rice plants are grown by taking seeds from the previous crop and growing seedlings for the next spring, similar to other cereals such as wheat and barley.
There are two major types of Asian rice: Japonica (short-grained) and Indica (long-grained). Each category can be further categorized as being less glutinous (sticky) or more glutinous (non-sticky). The stickiness of the rice is associated with the shape of the starch molecules once cooked.
Although sake can be brewed with any kind of rice, for Japanese sake non-sticky Japonica rice varieties are used, in other words, short-grained glutinous rice. The most important reason to use non-sticky rice for sake is that it is easier to handle during brewing as it simply does not stick together so much compared to sticky rice. Another advantage of using non-sticky Japonica rice is that the starch is easier to break down into fermentable sugars by the koji enzymes.
Sake Rice (酒米)
What is sake rice called in Japanese?
Sake rice is non-sticky Japonica rice which is grown especially for sake making, most of them also being suitable for eating. The sake rice is called “sakamai” (酒米) in Japanese. The official term “shuzokotekimai” (酒造好適米) can be translated to sake-specific rice or rice suitable for sake brewing.
What is the difference between eating rice and sake rice?
Compared to table rice (飯米), sake rice has fewer proteins, lipids, vitamins, and minerals that give table rice its flavor. Those flavor components are undesirable when making delicate and elegant styles of sake, such as ginjo or daiginjo. The sake rice in particular has:
- A low protein content
- A well-formed starch core (ideally flat and disc-shaped)
- Large grains (25-30 g/per 1000 grains)
- Resistant to cracking when being polished
- Good water absorbency while being easily broken down by koji enzymes during brewing
The low protein content ensures that the sake made from this rice contains fewer amino acids and peptides. The large grains and crack resistance ensure that all unwanted elements in the rice grain's outer shells can be completely polished away. It is also easier to polish larger grains without inducing cracks and damage to the grains, which would negatively influence the taste of the sake. The good water absorbency property enables water penetration into the grain during the rice washing, soaking, and steaming process, which helps to break down the rice more easily during the fermentation.
What sake rice is the best for sake?
This is a hard question to answer. Depending on the sake style the brewer wants to achieve, the brewery might choose different sake rice. If you would answer this question simply, the best rice for sake would be Yamadanshiki. As seen by its overall use in sake (over 30% of sake-specific rice production) the “king of sake rice” is the preferred choice for most sake brewers.
How many types of sake rice?
In 2015 there were about 100 registered sake rice varieties in Japan. Nearly half were registered after 2000, and new varieties are added yearly. The sake rice varieties preferred by the sake brewers change over time with the spread of popular sake styles and tastes.
Sake Rice Types
Among the over 100 registered sake rice varieties, the following are the top sake rice variants by production volume according to the available statistics published by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries of Japan.
Yamadanishiki (山田錦)
Yamadanishiki (山田錦), known as the “king of sake rice”, is mainly grown in Hyogo prefecture, making up roughly one-third of the whole sake rice production. It has been grown since the 1930s and is a popular sake rice for many reasons. Yamadanishiki has large grains and a well-formed & large starch core (“Shinpaku”, 心白) enabling low polishing ratios for making ginjo and daiginjo sake.
Sakes made with Yamadanishiki sake rice tend to have elegant generous flavor profiles with purity and precision. Low in aroma, it leaves room for the yeast to express itself with fruity and floral aromas. Great examples of Yamadannishiki sake are HAKURAKUSEI Junmai Daiginjo Special A-Ranked Yamadanishiki 29% and ROKUJU YOSHU Junmai Ginjo (Yamadanishiki).
Gohyakumangoku (五百万石)
Over 25% of the total sake-specific rice is Gohyakumangoku (五百万石), which is mainly grown in Niigata Prefecture, but also along prefectures of the west coast of Japan. Compared to the Yamadanishiki sake rice, Gohyakumangoku is slightly smaller. It can also be polished well without breaking or splintering the grain. It is known for its characteristics to make good koji. Its name translates into “five million koku” (around 900 million liters), celebrating the anniversary when the total rice production in Niigata exceeded this level.
Sakes made with Gohyakumangoku sake rice tend to have subdued aromas, light textures, and flavors, making it well-suited for the light-dry “Tanreikarakuchi” sake, the representative style of Niigata.
Miyamanishiki (美山錦)
Another famous sake rice is Miyamanishiki (美山錦), which is mostly grown in Nagano and the mountains of the Tohoku region in the northeast. About 10 percent of the total sake rice production is Miyamanishiki. This sake rice variant can grow in a cool mountain environment. The grains of Miyamanishiki are about the same size as Gohyakumangoku, but slightly smaller than the ones of Yamadanishiki.
Sake brewed with Miyamanishiki tends to be rich, and robust with even some grippy and grainy texture. Characteristic of Nagano sake, the results are sweeter, richer, and more robust sake that is very different from the dry-light sake coming from Niigata. Compared to the Yamadanishiki the aromas are even more subdued. Representative sakes made with Miyamanishiki sake rice from our sake portfolio are HAGI NO TSURU Junmai Ginjo and HAGI NO TSURU Kotatsu-Cat Label Junmai Ginjo.
Omachi (雄町)
Another popular sake rice is Omachi (雄町), which is mainly grown in Okayama prefecture. Smaller amounts are grown in the neighboring Hiroshima prefecture and a few other south-western prefectures. It makes up about 2 percent of the sake-specific rice production. It is one of the oldest sake rice varieties, registered as sake rice in 1866. Omachi rice has very large grains (Yamadanishiki and Omachi are the two major largest sake-specific rice varieties). Like the Yamadanishiki the starch core is also large, but the “Shinpaku” has a plump shape and soft texture that makes Omachi difficult to polish.
Sakes brewed with Omachi rice tend to have a rich texture and grippy mouthfeel, with earthy spicy elements, and higher umami. Omachi sake can often be enjoyed warmed due to these characteristics. One great example of an Omachi sake is the SHICHIDA Junmai Ginjo Omachi 50%, from Tenzan Sake Brewery in Saga.
Dewasansan (出羽燦々)
The Yamagata-native Dewasansan (出羽燦々) sake rice makes up about 2 percent of the sake-specific rice production. Almost none is grown outside of Yamagata prefecture. Sake, made with all local Yamagata ingredients and Dewasansan, can be called “Dewa33”, and tends to be deep in flavor with hints of herbal aroma elements.
Conclusion
Choosing the right rice is crucial to creating exceptional sake. From the elegant and refined Yamadanishiki to the robust and rich Miyamanishiki, each variety offers a unique flavor profile and brewing characteristic. Understanding the differences among these sake rice types enriches our appreciation for the craftsmanship behind Japanese sake, highlighting how something as simple as rice can create such complex aromas and flavors.
